Neighborhood Services: where the lighting is just a tad too dim, the waiters wear sweater vests with embroidered crests and I dream of splurging on sparkling water and pasta and French fries.

I thought I was just there to eat, drink, and maybe use the mouthwash and little hand towels in the bathroom. But no.

I realized that I was there – in the ladies’ room, that is – to learn how to finally chop an onion, from Vincent Price. Yes, that Vincent Price. (Interestingly, Price was Child’s 9th cousin, once removed). Apparently, the recording was chef’s choice.

Also chef’s choice: The house-made, Saturday night fettuccine special made with thick cut, salty pancetta; lush English peas; and savory, buttery soft shell crab meat.

The restaurant is known for its New York Strip steak, served barely medium-rare and practically dredged in a crust of charred peppercorn and served with those marvelous frites.

The chef, who wore a pair of thick rectangular glasses,  stopped by to ensure that the meal was excellent. I commented on his taste in bathroom audiobooks, to which he responded with a humble smile.